Be aware that Kenya's minibuses (known as matatus), and to a lesser extent buses, have a bad safety record and certain companies are worse than others. Among bus companies, Tawfiq and the associated firms of Takrim and Interstate 2000 are notorious for frequent crashes, while matatu routes especially prone to crashes include Nairobi-Meru and Nairobi-Mombasa.

The most dangerous matatus are those billed as "express" (they mean it). Buses are always safer if you have the choice, and Akamba has the best safety record among bus companies. If you feel unsafe, don't hesitate to ask to get out of the vehicle and demand a partial refund - which will usually be forthcoming. Lastly, if you're driving yourself, beware of buses and matatus and keep your distance from them.

In the wake of a catastrophic train crash in March 1999 along the Nairobi-Mombasa line, possibly caused by brake failure, the future of passenger services on Kenya Railways was for a time uncertain. The railways have been underfunded (or funds have been siphoned off) for years, with the result that all passenger trains were halted in 2001 with the exception of the Nairobi-Mombasa service, which was reduced to four trains a week. Services may be restored at some time in the future between Nairobi and Kisumu, Kisumu and Butere, and even Nairobi and Eldoret, but at present none are running, and there are no longer any connections into Tanzania or Uganda (and not much remaining of their rail services either).

the main draw for travellers is the four-times-weekly overnight Nairobi-Mombasa run, which leaves in either direction at 7pm, to arrive anytime between 8am and 10am the following morning. Frustrating though the (almost routine) delays are, they at least mean you are likely to have a couple of hours of morning light to watch the passing scene: approaching Nairobi, the animals on the Athi Plains.

Kenya has a number of reasonably priced internal services, and it's well worth seeing the country from the air at least once; the flight from Lamu to Malindi is an especially exotic and exhilarating one over reefs and jungle.

Baggage allowances on internal flights, apart from Kenya Airways, are usually under 20kg and may be as little as 10kg. Fortunately, the excess baggage charges are nominal. There is an airport tax of Ksh300 on all domestic flights, plus Ksh200 compulsory insurance, all usually included in the fare.

Lastly, note that ordinary connecting times shouldn't be relied on if you're flying to catch an international departure. Many of the cheaper flight tickets to Europe cannot be endorsed to another airline if you miss your flight, and domestic services are often delayed.

Renting a car has advantages over any other means of transport, which makes it seriously worth considering for a week or two. All the parks and reserves are open to private and rented vehicles (as well as organized tours), and there's a lot to be said for the freedom of choice that having your own wheels gives you. Unless there are more than two of you, though, it won't save you money over one of the cheaper camping safaris. The minimum age is 23, sometimes 25.

Prices vary greatly, with some quoted in Kenyan shillings, though most in dollars. It's often cheaper to rent by the week if you do enough kilometres - reckon on driving an average of 1000km per week (around 600-700 miles).

Kenya's climate and varied terrain make it challenging cycling country. If it appeals to you - whether you're a lycra-laminated pro or just use a bike once in a while - it's one of the best ways of getting around. With a bike, given time and average determination, you can get to parts of the country that would be hard to visit by any other means except perhaps on foot, and what would take several days to hike can be cycled in a matter of hours.

It's also one way you will get to see wildlife outside the confines of the game parks. Most towns have bicycle shops which sell both mountain bikes and the trusty Indian three-speed roadsters.